ASTROMAN CLIMBING GYM, HONGDAE
From “NAPKIN” Vol. 2 June/July 2006
By Rhea Metituk
Climbing is a sport that delivers a punch to the imagery. Old movies like CLIFFHANGER and VERTICAL LIMITS purport climbing to be raw, a sport for the insane. Yet the recent world-lust for extreme sports gives climbing a very sexy image, and modern equipment makes it more viable adventure. Getting vertical is hot, but even children and the elderly can do it. A baby-step to the mountain for the first-time climber may be in the playpen of indoor or sport climbing, which is a vital refuge for off-season rack and ice climbing training and popular as a sporting discipline in itself. Climbing gyms are a 3D human Lego-land full of adrenalin and gasping effort. The walls and ceilings are laced with labyrinth mazes of multi-colored pegsand holds, and floors cushioned in billowy mattress softness that riles the excitement and mystery inherent in this playful pastime. Once faded with the gym’s alluring invitation to play, few can resist the temptation to harness-up and try it for themselves.
ASTROMAN in Hongdae has a friendly, upbeat crowd that’s easy to mesh into for climbers of all levels, from baby to pro. Inside, you will generally be greeted by a cheerful chorus of “Anneounghaseo”s. Self-sponsored climbing pros regularly conjoin there to satisfy their climbing addiction. These little spiders will astonish with their agility and strength, as they puzzle out challenges while traversing overhanging surfaces. At the same time, new-to-the-sport climbing babies can be spotted gleefully charging up the flat walls. Babies, pros, and everyone-in-between are guided patiently by manager Gyung Jin Lee, who has been shepherding the positive group dynamic at ASTROMAN since its inception three years ago.
Gyung Jin Lee didn’t want to divulge all his training secrets in great detail, but the general process is, after accessing a climber’s level, he helps them work on developing core and finger strength, balance and counterbalance techniques, 70-30 upper body to lower body strength ratio, flexibility, and endurance. The feet are generally kept under the body as much as possible, except in counterbalancing exercises, and the hips should almost hug the climbing surface, ultimately choreographing smooth upward and sideward movement. If one chooses, progress records and specific training goals can be kept. However, it need to be so serious – in ASTROMAN’s playful atmosphere of freedom and fun reign, and users enter a general melody of movement on which each person guides their own play session.
Though the ASTROMAN’s walls are low enough for one to go ropeless, they are higher than most around Seoul, so users can get that extra “nol-pi” stretch.
Popular with the mighty and the curious, Friday nights are Bouldering Challenge Nights at ASTROMAN. Bouldering is a kind of power-based climbing sprint. In Bouldering, the puzzles are made of a few hand-holds placed far apart. Though intense, it tends to be a light-hearted team-oriented party followed by yummy treats, like deokboggi.
To get tangled in rope and learn good belay techniques, join the Wednesday exodus to artificial climbing walls in Gwang-myeong, Boramae, or Eung-bong. If the excursions are not your thing, the gym is left open for those who want stay in to practice. Other outings for rock-climbing are slotted into weekends and holidays on and off through the seasons.
ASTROMAN’s owner, Kilsoo Yun can seem to be a ghost-like presence, often off indulging his own rock-climbing obsession in locations around the world. The latest jewelry in his climbing crown includes crawling up “The Nose” at El Capitan in Yosemite, a feat he accomplished in a day instead of the usual day and a half. He also manages the sales of climbing wear for your shopping pleasure, which can provide some very tempting indulgences as your climbing addiction deepens.
The climbing system in Korea followed the Japanese in its adoption of the European grading system in the 70s and 80s, but with greater American influence, these days routes are rated on gradients of difficulty from 5.9 to 5.15, with sub-groupings from “a” (easiest) to “d” for the most difficult. Gyung Jin-ssi notes that 5.15b is the highest humans have achieved for now.
Why make such efforts when your couch at home as just as nice as that plush mattress climbing gym floor? In case you haven’t noticed, climbers generally have hot bodies – carved with muscle and bursting with vitality and enthusiasm. Even if you don’t go pro, why not sprinkle some climbing adrenalin into your world, and develop your own bon sante. ASTROMAN is the place for people to get together, develop determination, and chase after their bliss. |
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